When I think about my time on Malta, I think of bright blue skies, ﬁelds of richly green clover, the sound of the ocean crashing against the cliffs, all only steps away from the well-worn stone streets of ancient cities and the chatty and perpetually kind people. And all of it—cities, coastal walks—warmed and cheered by the seemingly endless sunshine, even in the depths of winter.
It turns out I’m not alone in these memories. When I asked expats why they moved their whole lives over to the tiny Mediterranean island chain of Malta, sunshine, sea and the kindly English-speaking population were the three most popular answers. And those answers make perfect sense.
Despite its year-round warmth, Malta still manages to have distinct seasons—to the surprise and delight of many expats. Winter is mild and the days are often sunny. But it’s also decidedly green—with ﬁelds of clover and other plant life spreading out, emerald, across the cliffs and between the towns, dotted by bunches of bright white chamomile and other small ﬂowers. In summer, the landscape grows more barren, highlighting the hearty cactus and its prickly pinkish pears. Hot days drive everyone to the water…Malta is known as a diver’s paradise.
Malta is, in fact, five islands: the main island of the same name, the smaller Gozo, Comino, Cominotto and Filﬂa. Despite its tiny size, this country manages to pack in a diverse array of sights and lifestyles to suit all. The largest island—Malta—is home to the vibrant, cosmopolitan capital of Valletta and other urban centres. Gozo is home to a more rustic, quieter lifestyle. Comino—less than four square kilometres in size—is virtually uninhabited, apart from a single hotel. However, Comino can still be worth a visit if you’re into snorkelling, windsurﬁng or exploring an island almost untouched by humans. Cominotto and Filﬂa are also uninhabited.
Valletta is renowned for being the warmest capital in Europe. Average daytime temperatures are around 15 C, with at least ﬁve hours of no-cloud-in-sight sunshine per day, in the “winter” months of January and February. And temperatures average in the high 20s C during the hottest part of the summer.
Valletta is a well-preserved ancient city (built in the 16th century by the Knights of St. John), a popular tourist destination and a busy port town—at the height of summer, its docks play host to two cruise ships a day.
Valletta and nearby Sliema are lively year-round, with busy pedestrian walking areas, well-kept public parks and hidden-away jazz clubs where music-lovers spill out onto the steps. There is also a wide variety of excellent restaurants, such as the experiential Legligin—a tapas bar without a menu—or the elegant, Italian-inspired Margo’s pizzeria. Valletta, in particular, is bursting with people. Locals, of course, but also a young, hip, often self-employed expat crowd taking advantage of the sunshine and cheap cost of living as they build their businesses.
If Valletta is the hub for young, world-curious expats from places like Canada and mainland Europe, St. Paul’s Bay and the surrounding areas (including the well-kept and lively seaside town of Bugibba), about an hour northwest of Valletta, have a reputation as an expat haven for a slightly older crowd of British families and retirees.
When I ﬁrst stepped foot on the pink-brick promenades that line the coast here, I immediately understood their love for this place. It’s a little closer to nature than the capital, but it’s still lively and popular, with sunny seaside walkways, busy bay-view restaurants and distant glimpses of fortresses, churches and islands.
More central and to the west, the walled town of Mdina and the larger city of Rabat that surrounds it, are popular spots with tourists—though the expats don’t seem to have caught on yet. Mdina is quiet and tiny, with under 300 full-time inhabitants. Rabat is busy and lively, colourful and lived-in, with about 7,000 full-time residents, mostly Maltese.
For an expat looking for total cultural immersion, these towns—home to cafés ﬁlled with local men having their morning coffees or afternoon teas and the most authentic pastizzi (the popular local savoury pastry), according to everyone I met—seem like a good spot.
And ﬁnally, there’s Gozo, my favourite part of Malta and the second-largest island in the Maltese island chain. It’s just 25 minutes north of the main island by ferry (you can catch it in Cirkewwa, on the northwest coast) and has a reputation for rural landscapes, quiet living and a whole lot of retirees.
Gozo’s appeal for retirees is peace and quiet that’s still close to urban convenience. It’s still easy to get to bustling Valletta, ancient Mdina or Malta’s international airport—each just a ferry and bus ride away. But on Gozo, I woke up every morning to the sound of birdsong and the strong smell of thyme, which grows along the cliffs and often hangs drying in the Gozitan kitchens. In Malta, I was never far from the sound of trafﬁc, of people, of civilization…but on Gozo I enjoyed long coastal walks, with only the sound of the ocean beating the cliffs and the occasional bleating of goats grazing above me.
And still, on Gozo, I had everything I needed. Victoria—the capital city—is a hive of activity, full of shopping centres, a sports centre, burger joints and exceptional restaurants (like Maldonado Bistro, where they hand-make their gnocchi and serve prickly pear liquor at the end of the meal). Victoria is headquarters for just about everything on the island, and also has a hospital, two opera houses and an organic food shop. It’s also Gozo’s bus hub (it’s easy to reach from any other part of the island) and the top stop for most tourists who visit the island.
The cost of living—already good value on Malta, the main island—is even lower on Gozo. A day-long bus ticket is around $1.50—and even less if you’re a resident over 60. The ferry costs $7 round-trip for visitors, $3 for permanent residents, and nothing for senior residents (with a special card from the transportation company). Grocery costs are reasonable, with milk and bread around $1.50, eggs about $3, and a mid-range bottle of wine at about $8 on both islands. Expats report living expenses here of between $2,300 and $3,200 a month, depending on their lifestyle.
For Australians looking to live in Malta, one option is the Global Residence Program. This does, however, stipulate minimum rents of around $1,000 a month on Gozo and southern Malta and around $1,200 a month in the rest of Malta. (Fortunately, nearly all rentals—and often some of the sale properties—come furnished.) Some expats I spoke to also reported living here on temporary residence permits for pensioners and self-sufﬁcient persons (which both need to be renewed annually).
If you’re looking for a short stay, Gozo also has plenty of holiday rentals that can be booked by the day, week or month. Short-term rentals run higher than long-term, but they’re fully furnished and all costs are included. Luxury apartments with sea views and near the beach start at about $60 a night. Check out Flipkey.com and Franksalt.com.mt for more information.
And don’t worry about getting sick here, either. Maltese healthcare is very reputable—it’s widely considered one of the best healthcare systems in the world—and costs are moderate. You’ll ﬁnd both public and private hospitals and clinics here. While most hospitals are located on the main island, Gozo also has one in Victoria.
So if you’re looking for a warm-weather Mediterranean destination—whether for a quick visit or a longer stay—put Malta on your bucket list. With its Mediterranean waters, sandy beaches, sunny, warm weather, ancient cities and low costs, it offers a rewarding, dream-worthy lifestyle.
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